The rest of the trip was long flights. Over 11 hours to Seoul and another 11 hours to Auckland. Long long queues at customs bur much shorter for Kiwi passports. Other passports would be waiting a couple of hours! Made connection to Palmy. Great views of snow covered Central Plateau. A nice day just 20°c less than I’m used to!
Left accommodation just after 10am. Took a while to find a place to buy a bus ticket. Buses were very full but when mine came along there was plenty of room. Found the place to leave my main bag for the day near the station, Roma Termini. Had trouble buying ticket for train to airport for later in the day. Found out there are 2 train companies. Everything else is linked together. Bus ticket lasts 100 minutes so used to take Metro to the Colosseum. I arrived there after midday and Colosseum ticket booked online was for 3pm. Plenty of time to see the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. But these were much bigger than I thought.
It is truly the old centre of Rome. Most of these Roman ruins are from the 1st to the 5th centuries. There is so much to see and you could spend all day here.
But after 2 ½ hours it was time for the Colosseum. Tried to get in a bit before my ticket time but told I had to wait. Once in there’s a one-way direction of visit. A great way to get a lot of people through in a short time. Crowded as the rest of Rome’s big sites but fantastic and great to finally see it.
The audio guide was good. Earthquake had damaged it in 1349 and later when falling into disrepair a lot of the stone and marble was used in buildings at the Vatican, the walls of Rome and other buildings.
Time to catch the Metro back to Roma Termini. The transport system would be great if everything worked. There was a long queue in a small area to buy Metro tickets from a dispensing machine. Signs saying you can just scan your credit card on the way in so gave up on the queue and tried that. Didn’t work but the person’s behind me used his card and we both went through. Other end is just a turnstile so no ticket required. Free trip because of system inadequacies. Last coins used on a hazelnut icecream, collected bag and onto the expres train to airport. Ticket checked on board which was fine but not for a young Australian across the isle. She had bought her ticket online but unfortunately had put in tomorrow’s date. She had paid the €14 but the conductor said an invalid ticket and had to buy a new one plus a €50 fine – total €64. She argued that was flying out so couldn’t use ticket tomorrow but had no choice but to pay. She was not happy. All went smoothly for me at the airport and Korean Air Left on time at 9:25pm. Now just the long flights home to cold and wet New Zealand.
I left just after 10am for the Vatican. Walk past a very very long queue that reminded me of Wimbledon. The advantage of booking online a few days ahead that you jump the queue and go straight through security and you are in a different country – The Vatican City, the smallest country in the world (49 hectares). Technically it’s not in the EU and I guess when you buy your tickets in euros your are in Italy! We had a great guide to take us for 2 hours through a huge area of marble sculptures, paintings, mosaic floors (when you could see them), tapestries, maps, painted walls and ceilings. And the place was absolutely full of tourists – 25,0000 a day! It was amazing.
The tour finished as we entered the Sistine Chapel. No photos (there’s plenty available online) and no talking. Really? This is the noisiest place in the Vatican City with huge numbers of disrespectful tourists ignoring the loud speakers telling them not to talk. Crazy. I had a quick look at the other Vatican museums but I think I had got to overload. Though a great list of Popes carved in a stone wall.
Next was an hour in St. Peter’s Basilica (built 1506-1626) the largest church in the world and it is huge, 218m long and the dome height 136m. Huge marble statues of Popes. A bronze statue of Peter with his foot worn down by pilgrims kissing it. The crypt was full of dead Popes.
Out into St. Peter’s Square. That was an intense 3 ½ hours. Walked via Piazza Navona to the Pantheon where I spent 45 minutes online trying to buy a ticket.
The cash and credit card queues were basically not moving. Two credit cards were rejected (found out you needed a EU card only) and finally paid via PayPal (using a credit card! ) and PayPal fee was a third as much as the €5 entry. It was do this or not get in. Once had ticket it was straight in. At nearly 2,000 years old it is the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome at 43m diameter and 43m in height. Impressive even if I spent twice as long buying the ticket than being there. That’s the peak season for you.
Next stop the Trevi Fountain (1762). And the crowds. They throw coins in and the €3,000 per day is used to feed the citizens of Rome in need.
On to the Spanish Steps. Built with French money in 1725 and the steps lead to a French church, so the French Steps? The 135 steps were not as busy as expected but a lot of people below them.
The French church, Chiesa di Trinità dei Monti, had a sundial on it that said 4pm, but it was 5:15pm. Interesting fact is Italy advanced its time by 10 minutes in1893 (to be 1 hour ahead of GMT) and with daylight saving the sundial was accurate! Near this church is a lovely view back over Rome.
You don’t need to carry much water around in Rome as you can fill up at the countless water fountains that are safe to drink from. Walked down to Piazza del Popolo, People’s Square.
A great App for transport in Rome is “Moovit”. But each time I’ve checked it today walking is not much longer than taking public transport. So decided to walk back to accommodation beside the Tevere, River Tiber. It’s certainly not like the Seine or even the Thames though.
Also found a car smaller than a Smart car, the EV Renault Twizzy. Though its easy to park a Smart car too.
Back at 7pm. Out for dinner at a real Italian time of 9:30pm. It was very busy and eventually found a nice table overlooking a square for a seafood risotto and wine for my last night of this trip.
Left for the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum after 10am. 34°c already so good to be in partial aircon. First level were taxidermy mounts of native animals and birds of Croatia. All from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s a shame to think this may be the only way to see these animals in the future. Next level was similar but marine life, coral and some amazing shell all collected in the same era. The leatherback turtle was impressive – can grow to 2m long and weight up to 916 kg. It is also the only warm-blooded reptile on earth. It doesn’t have a shell like other turtles, it has a leathery one.
There was an area with a huge number of butterflies. Time to collect bag and say goodbye to Dubrovnik and the crowds.
Took the local bus to the bus station to avoid many steps to the next airport bus stop and to makesureIgot a seat. Bus on time but a very slow journey along a dramatic road high above the cliff coastline. Took a lot longer than usual so pleased I took the earlier bus. When it was check-in time I had the fastest check-in ever. This is with Vueling Airlines who have let me down before. We left on time for the hour and 20 minute flight. In Rome for some unknown reason it took the ground staff half an hour to get the sky bridge connected and open. Relatively easy local train and then bus to accommodation by 7:45pm. This is the Trastevere area of Rome and the area is full of restaurants and people. I had a pizza and a draft Peroni sitting at a small table on the street. By the time I left, just before 9pm, there was a queue of at least 2 dozen people waiting for a table at the restaurant. I guess it’s popular as other restaurants weren’t completely full like this one.
I caught the 9am boat to Lokrum Island – just a 10 minute trip. It’s been a Nature reserve for over 70 years. Recently it has been found to be the home of 11 species of bats. It was first inhabited before 1023 when the Benedictine abbey and monastery was built. The monks left in 1808. The parts of the Monastery that remain are from the 15th to 17th centuries.
The island then went into private hands and a botanical garden was developed mainly of Australian and South American plants. Peacocks were introduced.
A collapsed cave formed the “Dead Sea” which is fed by the sea during storms and high tides through small caves. Since the were 3 types of Sea anemone that could sting you I decided not to have a swim. There is also the beach which is all rocks. I continued up to the Fort Royal at the top of the island (96m). This was built by the French in 1806 and completed in 1833 when the Austrians were in power over the island.
Next was the Lazaretto. This was being built in the 14th century as a quarantine area due to the bubonic and pulmonary plague, the Black Death. However it was not completed as it was thought that enemies may take it over and turn it into fortifications. So other land based quarantines were used. Later many of the stone blocks were used in the building of the Dubrovnik Wall.
Back down to the shore to Skalica a disused jetty for a swim. There are lots of “Game of Thrones” sites here as a lot of filming was done on the island – I should watch that series! Back to the main jetty and the 1:15pm sailing back to Dubrovnik. Later out to the Franciscan Monastery built in 1317 together with the pharmacy which is one of the oldest in the world.
“War Photo Limited” was set up by a Kiwi, Wade Goddard, to show the horrors and suffering of war. Originally for the Croatian independence from the Socialust Yugoslavia regime (the permanent upstairs gallery) but currently the first floor was about the Ukraine war. I didn’t realise that the war actually stated in 2014. This was when Ukraine started thinking of joining the EU. Of course some of the east of Ukraine were more Russian than Ukraine so then the conflict started. Amazing, sad and traumatic photos of war, well really the plight of civilians. I moved on to something lighter, or maybe not, the Archaeological Museum. Had a quick look – amazing carved stones from the 9th century or later and a bronze helmet from the 4th century!
A walk around the old Port and then a swim back at the small bay near the fort. Another lovely fish dinner.
Started with the City Wall walk at 8:30am (opened at 8). Few people in the streets so thought it would be a quite time. Wrong – a well known accent and a cruise liner was anchored in the harbour. All the same it’s a lovely near 2km walk around the walls with a couple of museums to visit and of course a couple of cafes. The Maritime Museum was very good. Amazing how far they sailed centuries ago. Of course I had to stop for an orange juice and sit looking out over the sea.
Great views of course over Old Town Dubrovnik. It was after midday before I got off the walls and headed back to my apartment for a rest.
Later out on a museum afternoon. “House of Marin Držić” 1508-67, a great Croatian playwright. “Ethnographic Museum” set in a 16th century granary (huge holes dug out of the bedrock like reverse silos) – costumes, tools etc.
“St. Ignatius Church” rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake in the Baroque style.
Popped in to see the “Buža Beach” which is really steep rocks leading down to the sea.
“Gallery Dulčić Masle Pulitika” (you got that) with modern art (well…) and some great aerial photography of Eastern Europe mainly. “Dubrovnik Cathedral” on the site of a 12th century Cathedral destroyed in the 1667 earthquake again rebuilt in the Baroque style.
“Rector’s Palace” a huge display from the time of the Republic of Ragusa (14th century to 1808).
“Church of St. Blaise” 1715 Baroque style.
“City Guard Building” chimed 5pm. “Sponza Palace” had a Memorial to the 1991-95 war and photos of a partly destroyed Dubrovnik.
It was time for a fig and walnut icecream. Yum. Later I caught a local bus to the new port (Luka Guz) were my ferry had arrived at yesterday. I was recommended a restaurant there and I had a lovely fish dinner.
The ferry to Dubrovnik left at 10:30 am calling in to Pomena on Mljet. Arrived in Dubrovnik port just before 1pm. Caught a local bus to the Old Town. Had a short wait to check into my apartment just after 2pm. Lots of information given by owner which was great. I headed out at 4pm, still hot at 35°c, and visited Fort Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress). Built perhaps at the end of the 13th century it sits on a rock 37m above the sea. It is outside Old Dubrovnik’s city walls so was very useful in the defence of the town. Now it is used as a theatre.
It has great views over the old town of Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667 and little remains from before that time – the fort being one to survive although it has been added to over time. Dubrovnik also suffered during the war that saw Yugoslavia break up. The roofs of the old town were mostly destroyed in the war and only a few of the original pale coloured terracotta roofs survived. The new roofs are a more bright terracotta.
It was time for a swim in a small bay near the fort. Beer then out for dinner.
This island is very organised for biking and walking routes. You can download the GPS (gpx files) coordinates for the route and they even suggest a free App where you can download for free the area maps for off-line use and import the trail. So with phone on a handlebar silicone mount (thanks H S White) and power bank I was set for the day. The bike rental was just around the corner so I was away before 10am with helmet and repair kit. Navigation was easy thanks to the App but some intersections had 5 or more options. You soon know when you’re going the wrong way. I headed south along the coastline to Lumbarda – actually I missed the town as followed paths by the sea.
I got to the most easterly point of Korčula Island called Raznjic.
From here the climbing started and that seemed tough. Out of condition or the heat from the sun which was intense. It was supposed to be only 28°c today but it felt much hotter and no breeze to help. I was going through my 2 litres of water very quickly. My route was taking me passed a cafe and then later on a restaurant so all should be good. The café was closed and water was getting low.
Wonderful scenery of olive trees and vineyards down to the coastline.
I eventually made it to Pupnat, a town in the centre of the island (and thankfully my highest point) only to find the restaurant there was closed also. Saved by the Studnac, a small supermarket, a shady table nearby and a breeze to help cool me down. Water and lunch at 2pm.
From here it was a very steep road down to the northern coastline. Way steeper than what the sign said. I’d guess up to 15% or more which is why the bike hire place advised I do my planned route in reverse – THANKS. I doubt I could have biked up it.
The coastline was beautiful with many little coves.
But a good head wind all the way back to Korčula.
Back before 4pm so 6 hours all together. My 7.5 kph average included the stops – not cycle fit! Back for a swim, shower and rest. Another great day.
Another big catamaran left on time at 11:15am for the 1 ¼ hour trip to Korčula.
I was met by Tereza and taken straight to my room. It’s virtually at the entrance to the old town. The entrance to the Old town is by the impressive 14th century southern land gate of “Ve-liki Revelin Tower”. The town did have 20m high walls all around but only a small section remains. There are 2 other towers remaining, the Large Governers Tower (1483) and the Small Governers Tower (1449).
The St Mark’s Cathedral had an interesting portal with naked Adam and Eve in odd crouched positions. The Cathedral is from the 15th century made with Korčula limestone in a Gothic-Renaissance style. The inside having the usual dark feel.
Of course the bell tower with the narrowest steps yet had to be climbed for some lovely views over Korčula and the sea.
It was here that I realised why I like this place so much – I was the only one up the tower and there’s definitely a feel of way less tourists. So pleased I’m staying a couple of nights. There still seemed to be loads of restaurants and it’s amazing where they can find room for dinning tables.
After walking around the narrow streets it was time for a swim in the very nearby bay.
Later wandering around I bumbed into Paul and Barbara and their cycling group. Sounds like they had a great day on a similar route to what I am planning to do tomorrow. I met with Paul and Barbara later and found a nice restaurant looking out to sea with a nice sea breeze. We had a nice dinner and beers later joined by others from there cycling tour.
Had to finish the night with a hazelnut icecream.
Walked down to the harbour to catch the 11:15am ferry to Hvar – 1 ½ hour trip. The ferry was a flash 39m catamaran giving a smooth trip. Hvar is a relatively small town on a small harbour with a large number of boats (and people/tourists).
Just a 10 minute walk to my accommodation. The 15th Franciscan Monastery had only a small display inside. The main attraction an 8m wide, 16th century painting of the Last Supper.
The Arsenal right at the harbour was an amazing modern arched building but built in the 16th century. It had an odd mixture of things on display. Upstairs was the 1612 cute internal theatre.
It was a 38°c day so a very hot climb up to the 5th century Fortica. The fort has been extended over the centuries.
On the way down I was in contact with Paul and Barbara who are doing a cycling tour through the Croatian Islands. I joined them at a bar looking out to the harbour for a couple of beers. They left at 6pm to catch their boat to Korčula Island but I may catch up with them again there. The 16th century Clock tower (Loggia) has been recently renovated and gave elevated close views of the town.
The 17th century Cathedral of St. Stephen was open.
The streets like the previous towns are narrow and “cool”. The town is encouraging tourists to wear more clothes – which they don’t.
Back to my accommodation for togs and a walk around the coast to Pokonji Dol a small Cove for a swim. The Mediterranean water was a lovely temperature, salty and very buoyant.
Late lovely octopus dinner back in town and even at 10pm it seemed like everyone was out on the town.
Admin sorting out ferryboats through islands to Dubrovnik. About 10am walked down to the old town of Split. It was already 36°c and high was 38°c, so everyone chasing shade and obviously suffering in the sun. The main site of Split is the Diocletian’s Palace, a 30,000 m² walled city built in the 4th century. Just outside is the statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin who introduced (fought to get) Croatian language introduced into the church as no one understood Latin – reasonable just like Kate Shepherd! Not with regards to Latin of course. Apparently touching his toe brings luck.
I entered through the Golden gates (there are also the Brass, Iron and Silver gates) past the “centurions”. There was also other entertainment for the crowds.
The Cathedral of Saint Domnius was first built as a mausoleum in 311 AD (it’s old) and converted into a cathedral in the 5th century And considered the oldest Catholic Cathedral in the world.
The Bell Tower had to be climbed for some great views over Split.
Also visited the Crypt, Temple of Jupiter and the Treasury where all the silverware and paintings are displayed.
Wandered around the narrow streets past endless restaurants, icecream and pastry shops. Also some high end shops in the ancient buildings.
These narrow streets felt cool (I guess 36°c) as shady so out of the direct sunlight.
Lunch, checked out ferry departure dock and then climbed the hill of Marjan Forest Park. Lovely to be away from the huge crowds of the old city. A nice view up there over Split.
I continued on through the park and back down a narrow track to the city, supermarket for water (ran out at about 3pm) and back to apartment at 6pm. 8 hours in the sun and heat was enough.
Caught the bus at 10am, on time but the rest of the day was half hour late buses. First stop Šibenik with the bus arriving half hour late (1 ½ hour trip took 2 hours). I’m not sure how they were supposed to keep to the schedule. That reduced my time here to just over an hour. First stop was the Cathedral of St. James and the real reason for the stop here. Built solely of limestone and marble started in 1431 and completed in 1535. The inside is all scaffolding – just my luck!
One of the more interesting features is the external frieze of 71 heads of ordinary people of the 15th century.
On to the museum (no photos allowed) which holds many of the artefacts of the cathedral and was air-conditioned (36°c outside) and had a toilet 🙂 The town had a nice feel with its narrow cobblestone streets. Back to the bus station to wait for the bus – half hour late. The next bus ride to Trogir (1 hour) was along the coastline. There are so many gorgeous towns and bays that you could stay, swim and relax in.
Bag left at left luggage – this time €4 for 2 ½ hours whereas last time was €0:53 for 1 hour. Still better than lugging it around. Glad I had more time here. You guessed it first stop a cathedral – The Cathedral of St. Lawrence built between the 13th and 15th centuries. At least you could see the inside of this cathedral.
The portal (1240) has embarrassed Adam (covering genitals and Adams‘s apple) and Eve standing on the backs of lions.
The bell tower had to be climbed for great views over Trogir.
The narrow streets were a joy to walk around but without looking at a map (GPS) I walked in circles.
So many icecream shops and bakeries (hard to walk past) and so many restaurants with seats on the streets.
Trogir old town is actually a very small island. At the far end was a fort (now used mainly for concerts and charging tourists to enter) that you could climb for more views over the old town area and beyond.
It’s certainly a mix of old and new.
Back to the bus station for my 5:30pm bus that turned up at 6pm for the half hour trip to Split. In my accommodation just after 7pm. Lovely apartment with balcony so to supermarket for supplies and had dinner, beer and wine on balcony.
A more relaxed morning with bus at 10am and this time FlixBus was on time and at the right place even if it wasn’t on the departure board. Again amazing roads; motorway all the way with tunnels, 2 of them 6km long. The trip climbed slowly up and over the lower southern end of the Dinaric Alps and then slowly descended to the coast. We left the fertile inland for the arid rocky coastal area. Arrived just after 2pm and walked to my accommodation in the centre of the old part of Zadar. Very hot at 34°c and did some admin time needed and in the air-con. Just as well as buses for tomorrow heavily booked and little choice and got the last seat on the 10am tomorrow. Peak season! Started watching the Wimbledon final between Djokovic and Alcaraz thanks to having a British sim card. Out at 4:30pm, no cooler, for a mixture of sightseeing and Wimbledon. The streets are lovely with highly polished Roman-laid large cobblestone streets. All the churches were closed (apart for Mass – it’s Sunday) but the bells rang.
Lovely squares with ancient buildings many from the 16th century or older.
Found a nice restaurant on one of the narrow streets for dinner (and maybe some Wimbledon) at 5:30pm. Lovely fish dinner and an exciting game!
Continued around the old area an the Cathedral of St. Anastasia (12th and 13th century) but of course closed.
Climbed the belfry for great views over the city.
Two sets each (Wimbledon) and down to the final set. I had to wait for sunset anyway. At the western end of the city is the “Sea Organ” (2005). These are steps down to the sea with 35 pipes of different lengths and diameters which the waves force air to produce “music” out of perforations and holes in the stairs. Louder sounds if a boat goes past. Very cleaver.
Next door to this is the “Greeting to the Sun”. It’s a 22m diameter solar panel set into the ground with 300 solar panels and depicts the sun. The power generated is used to light the area at night.
Heading away from the “Sun”, in the same scale, are the planets. Correctly there is no Pluto. The distance each “Planet” is from the “Sun” is to scale also but a different scale to the diameters of course.
The place was crowded with people as we watched the sun set into the Mediterranean Sea.
Alarm at 4:10am Half hour walk to bus station. Quite a few people still up and the pre-dawn has started. Sunrise is 5:20am and sunset 8:40pm. Most of EU is on the same time zone. Paris sunrise and sunset is ¾ hour later. Got to bus station at 10 to 5am and bus at 5:10am. Spent ¾ hour trying to find it. It wasn’t on departure board and with so many bus parking areas I was walking in circles looking. Eventually found it to find out it had been delayed an hour. The company is called “FlixBus”. We got away at 6:15am and only 6 of us on a huge bus. Roads in Croatia and Slovenia are amazing and it was motorway all the way. The old boarder stations were there but not used. Croatia joined the EU after Slovenia in 2013. So these boarder crossings were only used after Yugoslavia broke up in 1991 until 2013. I arrived in Ljubljana in time to catch my booked bus to Bled (I had left some connection time). Arrived in Bled before 10am. Wow this is a stunning place. A beautiful lake with mountains in the background and the island in the middle with its iconic church. Started walking the 6km walk around the lake clockwise. After a km or so I caught a Pletna boat to the island. Propelled by an oarsman standing using 2 oars that stay in the water. It’s a very peaceful way to get to the island. There are so many people at Lake Bled, it’s peak season and Saturday. Many people hire boats to row, SUPs and a few just swim to the island. 99 steps takes you up on to the top of the island.
There has been a church on this island since the 9th century. This one dates back to the 15th century and the golden covered carvings from the 17th century. The wishing bell is from 1534 and the Pope says whoever rings the bell has their wishes granted. So of course I rang the bell.
I climbed the 54m bell tower which was built after the 1511 earthquake. The clock was made between 1860 and 1890.
The walk around the island is short, a quick look at the museum and the 40 minutes on the island was over. Half way around the walk of the island is the track that climbs up to the lookout, Mala Osojnica. It was a very hot climb (34°c today) but what a view.
This is an incredibly beautiful place even with the crowds. I managed to get to 3 view points either higher or giving a different angle of view. I had a minor navigation error between views 1 and 2 as there are so many tracks up there.
Back to lake level to continue around the lake. I past a couple of very crowded beaches but the water looked very enticing. About a km from the end I followed a track up to Bled Castle. Another hot climb. The castle sits on top of a vertical cliff above the lake. Amazing location but the visit to the castle won’t be remembered as a highlight.
Back down to the lake to find the famous Bled kremšnita (cream cake) and some liquid. The cake is basically layers of puff pastry, custard and whipped cream. A delicious filling dessert. Back to the bus station. At least the Slovenian buses are on time and we left at 4pm.
That was a fantastic 6 hours at Lake Bled. Shame no time for a swim but then security is always a problem as a solo traveller. Back in Ljubljana bus station for an hour wait for my 6pm bus back to Zagreb. Of course FlixBus (maybe it should be called Flexibus as it doesn’t keep to the timetable) was an hour late. Arrived back in Zagreb at 9:30pm and got an easy tram ride back to my accommodation.
Experience life
Rick's travels 